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May-June 2007

Editor's Highlights

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Testimonials from the well-fed



For this annual round-up of Cambridge eateries, the editors asked a range of Harvard faculty and staff members to recommend a favorite restaurant for the possible guidance of reunioners and other Commencement celebrants. Here are their picks, presented more or less in descending order of splendor and priciness. See the websites for elaboration.

 

Rialto [Charles Hotel, 1 Bennett St., 617-661-5050, www.rialto-restaurant.com], serving Mediterranean cuisine by chef Jody Adams, gets the nod from Joseph S. Nye, Sultan of Oman professor of international relations at the Kennedy School of Government. “Cambridge is blessed with a number of good restaurants,” he notes, “but when I want to be sure of a fine meal, I tend to go to Rialto. Admittedly, I have to feel flush enough not to worry too much about the price (or, better yet, be a guest of a visitor who insists on taking me to a good restaurant). I continually find dishes that involve pleasant surprises, such as ‘artichokes with straciatella cheese and mint.’ Sometimes the menu suffers from too many adjectives and not enough simple nouns, but I count that in the price of a great dinner.”

Courtesy of Craigie Street Bistrot
The heart of the matter at Craigie Street Bistrot, the kitchen where chef Tony Maws does the transformative work that wins him national acclaim
 

“Clearly OM Restaurant and Lounge [57 JFK St., 617-576-2800, www.omrestaurant.com] and the Craigie Street Bistrot [5 Craigie Circle, 617-497-5511, www.craigiestreetbistrot.com] are leading the charge in local dining,” declares stem-cell researcher Kevin Eggan, assistant professor of molecular and cellular biology. “OM manages to bring an exciting big-city atmosphere to ‘little Harvard Square,’ serving cutting-edge, sometimes experimental cuisine by chef Rachel Klein. On the other hand, Craigie Street, which is hidden away in a truly unsuspected location, is constantly pushing the bounds of what should be expected from your local, neighborhood gourmet [in this case, chef Tony Maws]. The bone marrow is a must-try at Craigie.”

OM chef Rachel Klein (inset) and the dining room at OM, studded with Asian art
Courtesy of OM
 

 “Rialto is truly superb,” agrees Lamont University Professor Amartya Sen, “and Legal Sea Foods [in the courtyard next to the Charles Hotel, 617-864-3400, www.legalseafoods.com] is splendid as well.” Walter Willett, Stare professor of epidemiology and nutrition in the Faculty of Public Health, agrees about Legal, saying that he and his family gravitate to it: “The Berkowitz family, which owns this chain of restaurants, strives to provide the freshest and healthiest products possible, and we are never disappointed. After 30 years, when I walk into their restaurants, my mouth still waters for the grilled bluefish with mustard sauce, and where else can you get great fried clams knowing they are prepared in trans-fat-free oils?”

Photograph by Peter Vanderwarker
Rialto has been completely renovated this year, with S-shaped banquettes winding their way through the dining room.
 

“Another remarkable restaurant,” continues economist Sen, “is Casablanca [40 Brattle St., 617-876-0999, www.casablanca-restaurant.com]. The food is excellent and unusually interesting, and the wine list is very well chosen and affordably outstanding. In fact, Casablanca, with its warm and homely atmosphere, is in many ways the best value for money around Harvard Square. I hope admiration does not change all that!”

“Any listing of notable Cambridge restaurants must include the Harvest” [44 Brattle St., 617-868-2255, www.harvestcambridge.com], according to Frank E. A. Sander, Bussey professor of law emeritus. “It can perhaps best be classified as Modern Gourmet, serving a variety of superbly prepared dishes in a congenial and attractive setting that can sometimes (e.g., on weekends) be noisy and crowded. Outdoor patio in summer. Suitable for celebratory occasions, but as is normally the case, excellence doesn’t come cheap.”

“For those who seek more distinctive, ethnic food,” Sander tosses in, “two of my favorites are Rendang [57 JFK St., 617-234-3988], a fine albeit very informal Malaysian restaurant, and Takemura [18 Eliot St., 617-492-6700], a small gem for lovers of sushi and other Japanese specialties.”


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