Julien

Escape from Beantown

>Captain and team await your pleasure in the gilded confines of Julien.Photograph by Stu Rosner

I'm pleased to report that the lights in the five splendid chandeliers did not dim. A gong did not sound. Singing waiters bearing a torch of a birthday cake did not march across the grand dining room as all eyes turned.

No. A server appeared discreetly at the side of the member of our party whose birthday it was, said, "Happy birthday, Madam," and placed before her a "surprise" arranged for by her son. It was a plateful of miniature desserts--among them a custard-filled pastry shell the size of a nickel, for instance--with a single candle rising from a jellied quelque chose. Around the broad rim of the plate, pastry chef Christophe Feyt had written in chocolate, with calligraphic flourishes and finesse, "Happy Birthday, Leonore." The birthday girl's delight was diminished not a particle by the fact that her name is Eleanor.

JULIEN
250 Franklin Street, Boston 02110. (800) 497-0400
Open for dinner, 6 p.m. to 10 p.m., Monday through Saturday. Lunch, noon to 2 p.m., Tuesday through Friday. Valet and self parking available.

Julien is the premier restaurant at Le Meridien Boston, in the financial district. The hotel is affiliated with Air France, the tricolor flies outside, and the new chef, Alain Fayé, comes from France, where he was successively chef/owner of three restaurants, each of which earned a Michelin star. To begin, perhaps a classic terrine of foie gras with muscat jelly, accompanied by sautéed foie gras and spiced caramel ($19), or a more modern creation, lobster salad with calamari and Asian dressing ($18). Attentive servers then whisk away the appetizers and bring plates with a complimentary soupspoonful of tuna tartare. On to a sautéed veal chop and sweetbreads ($32), or poached skate with ginger butter ($28). Entrées give way to a complimentary sweet--fresh berries and zabaglione, a couple of mouthfuls. But one must follow that with dessert itself ($8.50), say a tart orange and cardamom crème brûlée. We drink a good $38 Merlot. But $600 bottles appear on the wine list as well.

Is the food the best you've ever eaten? Probably not. The soup of fava beans, peas, radishes, and turnip greens ($8) is insufficiently robust, the seared halibut with tomato and black olive crust ($26) a bit dry. So, the food is merely excellent.

The décor is elegant, the hospitality flawless. One's eye wanders proprietorially across the vaulted ceiling touched in gold leaf, and benevolently circumnavigates the muted gold and burgundy interior of a chamber that was the "Members' Court" when the building housed the Federal Reserve Bank. What is most wonderful about Julien is the sense of privacy one has in a room full of life. A pianist plays, but distantly, in the lounge. The tables are far apart; each gathering of diners is unto itself. One sits in a wing chair, individually enveloped in privilege. Two hours pass, or three.

Is Julien worth its cost? Who can say? It depends who gets the check. Think of an evening at Julien as an alternative to the ballet or a Broadway show. A young lady of our acquaintance was taken there last year by her grandparents on a special occasion and said it was like going first class on the Titanic. It's a treat to be aboard the Titanic, up to a point.

~ C.R.

Main Menu · Search · Current Issue · Contact · Archives · Centennial · Letters to the Editor · FAQs